The Open Secret - Part 1

20 soldiers killed in Manipur Militant ambush” read the newspaper.

“Nobody panics when things go “according to plan.” Even if the plan is horrifying! If, tomorrow, I tell the press that, like, a gang banger will get shot, or a truckload of soldiers will be blown up, nobody panics, because it’s all “part of the plan.” But when I say that one little old mayor will die, well then everyone loses their minds!” – Joker, The Dark Knight

Just a month ago, 8 were killed in two separate incidents. My reaction was something as above. But this time, I am better sensitized! I went into temporary depression. Yes, that is all I could have and can do given my “position” in the system. Despite being part of the strongest element (people) in a democratic setup, I am actually quite insignificant, just like most others!

“Inner Line Permit? I need to seek permission to travel in my own country?” screamed my inner voice when one of the friends I was travelling with (a month ago) pointed out that we had to obtain a “pass” to enter any state in the North East except Assam, Meghalaya and Tripura. Though routine, this “pass” felt like a gross obstruction to our freedom to travel inside our own country. This “pass” was issued even in J&K!

On my first trip to the North East, I realized that the one thing that would capture my full attention was this issue of ILP. I absolutely had to understand the rationale behind keeping a colonial law that was made to protect the Crown’s interests. The official stand was protection of tribal culture but in a country such as ours and given the militancy in the North East, I knew the issue ran deeper.

Travel

Dimapur (town in Nagaland) was the last railway station to enter Nagaland, Manipur, Mizoram or Tripura. We had to rely on local (not State transport which is almost non-existent) transport to travel from there on. The capitals of Indian states are not connected by railways, the largest public employer in the world. How the hell do people tolerate this?

Dimapur to Kohima

As we entered Nagaland on a cab registered in Assam, we heard a volley of curses from the driver. “These junglee people (Nagas) hate us (Assamese). That is why all this pass nonsense. See these mountains, all those terrorists live here only. They come whenever they want and extort money from us.” I noticed patrols at every turn on the scenic mountains. “What about these uniform people? Aren’t the terrorists scared of them?” “Scared? Haha. Sometimes. But how much can the uniform people also help? Sometimes their trucks are also captured. Anyway, every day someone or the other calls for a bandh and we have to stop our business.”

Kohima to Imphal

“We will go till Mao gate (border town between Nagaland and Manipur), from there you take another cab” bargained a driver in Kohima. After much persuasion, one “brave” driver agreed to ply us. “See these mountains here? UGs stay here.” What the hell is a UG? I wondered as I tried to make a connection to the mountains in Nagaland. “UG means Under-Grounds. Those people in the mountains who kill, they are called UGs here”, the driver added seeing our confused faces.

At the entrance of Imphal, a uniform person stopped us and asked the driver to step down. After what seemed like the usual “give & take” talk, the driver returned flustered. “He wants ₹3000.” “What nonsense? What for?” quipped one of my friends who already appeared angry with the whole system of checks every few kilometres. “Simply. Because I am from Nagaland. They keep doing this to us.” Two of us walked to the officer to enquire about the situation. “Arre, it’s not for you. He does not have a permit to enter that is why we are asking for fine. You all can take another cab from here if you want.” Stopped again for a “permit” my mind nudged. Further questioning angered the officer whose “daily business” was suddenly being looked at suspiciously by “outsiders”. “Give and go. Don’t ask questions. Do you want to go to the office?” he thundered. Though the term “office” was used as a euphemism to something very illegal in movies, here it felt very real! The poor driver calmed us and parted with ₹1000. He would have been targeted later on. Yes, targeted violence is a known and accepted thing there.

Moirang to Imphal

“Some group has called for a bandh tomorrow because of some border issue between Nagaland and Manipur. Leave by 4:30AM, you will reach Imphal in an hour. You shouldn’t have a problem because usually bandhs take full effect post 7AM”, informed our friend at Imphal. Another friend from the local town who had offered to show us around hesitated to comply with those words. “If we get caught, they will burn the vehicles. If they find out I’m from a rival tribe then they will beat me to a pulp”, he said with a shaky voice. He feared for his life. After much persuasion he finally agreed to leave by 4AM.

At 4:10AM, when the sun was just raising its head above the beautiful mountains, our friend drove like there was no tomorrow. His face was pale and fear loomed large in his eyes. The fear was unlike the one that is created during bandhs that most of us experience in the mainland, with autos demanding extra or shops being closed. This bandh like any other in this region was one riddled with mortal danger for anyone who failed to comply! We were grounded for the rest of the day when we reached Imphal.

Another group of people who had to leave Imphal had just hired an ambulance, bandaged themselves and played doctor-doctor to get past the bandh. Freedom was surely expensive here and the cost was life itself!

Part 2 - http://insidemychoaticbrain.blogspot.in/2015/06/the-open-secret-part-2.html